Tennis is a fast-moving game, so to freeze action you’ll need to shoot at 1/1000 second or faster – more likely 1/2000-1/8000 second.
f/4 is a good starting point; it should provide decent brightness levels (so you can up your shutter speed), depth of field (to increase your chances of getting your subject in focus), and background compression. From there, try opening up to f/3.5 or f/2.8 (if your lens allows) then assessing and adjusting if needed.
The ISO required for your chosen shutter speed and aperture will depend on your shooting conditions. Up to ISO 400 is likely if you’re shooting outdoors during the day.
The faster your camera can continuously shoot, the higher your chances of nailing that perfect, in-focus shot. Professional tennis photographers shoot at around 14 fps (frames per second) but 7-8 fps should get decent results.
When shooting any moving subject it’s best to use continuous focus. If you or your camera’s autofocus (AF) system is finding it hard to keep up, try focus locking (using either manual focus or AF lock) at one point and shooting when the action gets to it.
White clothes and shadows from the outdoor sun can make it easy to over- or under-expose tennis photos. We recommend spot metering for each player’s face (available in manual mode or by using AE (Auto Exposure) Lock).